- Collections by first cohort of GSA Fashion Design students unveiled in
specially created tableaux. - Collections will be on show at New
Designers from 25 – 25 June 2014
Designs by Ziaqi Zhong, Callum McKay Greg Learmonth, James
Nicolson and Matthew Allen
Nicolson and Matthew Allen
The first cohort of students on the Fashion
Design programme graduate from the GSA this summer. Their collections, two
menswear and three womenswear, have been unveiled in series of special tableaux
at 2014 Degree Show. In a new departure each designer collaborated with a group
of third year Interior Design students to create the setting for the unveiling
of their collection.
Design programme graduate from the GSA this summer. Their collections, two
menswear and three womenswear, have been unveiled in series of special tableaux
at 2014 Degree Show. In a new departure each designer collaborated with a group
of third year Interior Design students to create the setting for the unveiling
of their collection.
“The design of the new
Reid Building encourages collaboration,” says Jimmy Stephen-Cran, Head of Fashion and
Textiles at the GSA. “It seemed
appropriate to make the most of what the building design offers and to create
special presentations for the collections by our first cohort of Fashion Design
students whose Degree Show was the first in the new Reid Building.”
Reid Building encourages collaboration,” says Jimmy Stephen-Cran, Head of Fashion and
Textiles at the GSA. “It seemed
appropriate to make the most of what the building design offers and to create
special presentations for the collections by our first cohort of Fashion Design
students whose Degree Show was the first in the new Reid Building.”
“It has been a fascinating opportunity for
the Interior Design students,” adds Patrick Macklin, Head of Interior Design.
“As well as creating settings that
showcase the Fashion students’ designs, they also worked with the interior
architecture of the Reid Building.”
the Interior Design students,” adds Patrick Macklin, Head of Interior Design.
“As well as creating settings that
showcase the Fashion students’ designs, they also worked with the interior
architecture of the Reid Building.”
Inspirations for the collections range from
Bond Girls to Hip Hop Culture and the artworks of Christo with fabrics
including bold floral prints, faux fur, bleached denim, organdie and quilted melton wool. The tableaux designs featured draped
fabrics, arches formed out of cross-laminated cardboard and a wall of real
flowers.
Bond Girls to Hip Hop Culture and the artworks of Christo with fabrics
including bold floral prints, faux fur, bleached denim, organdie and quilted melton wool. The tableaux designs featured draped
fabrics, arches formed out of cross-laminated cardboard and a wall of real
flowers.
The Collections will
be on show at New Designers in The Business Design Centre, London N1 0QH from 25 – 28
June 2014.
be on show at New Designers in The Business Design Centre, London N1 0QH from 25 – 28
June 2014.
Ends
Further
information and images
information and images
Lesley
Booth
Booth
0779
941 4474
941 4474
press@gsa.ac.uk
Five collections unveiled in special
tableaux
tableaux
MATTHEW ALLEN (WOMENSWEAR)
The Collection
Based around the idea of the 1960s Bond
girl, this collection explores the notion of international travel, placing the
muse into an artificially constructed world. Reading the Fleming novels I was
intrigued by the representation of the girls and their purpose to the discourse
of the book. Looking specifically at a hiking rucksack as a starting point its
physical shape and detailing informed the silhouette, referring back to this
concept of elusive exploratory travel.
girl, this collection explores the notion of international travel, placing the
muse into an artificially constructed world. Reading the Fleming novels I was
intrigued by the representation of the girls and their purpose to the discourse
of the book. Looking specifically at a hiking rucksack as a starting point its
physical shape and detailing informed the silhouette, referring back to this
concept of elusive exploratory travel.
The clothes begin to adopt the technical
elements that allude to practicality, yet they serve primarily as aesthetic enhancement
to the wearer. Using the greater context of extreme sports, diversifies these
technical elements pushing the theme of impracticality further whilst
solidifying her position in this newly constructed narrative.
elements that allude to practicality, yet they serve primarily as aesthetic enhancement
to the wearer. Using the greater context of extreme sports, diversifies these
technical elements pushing the theme of impracticality further whilst
solidifying her position in this newly constructed narrative.
As well as using traditional pattern
cutting techniques a heavy element of my collection is hand-applied tasseled
knitwear, which is integrated into each look. Within the textiles that surround
this knit, quilted melton wool, piped hiking rope and technical closures are
used in an innovative manner subtly reinforcing the concept surrounding this theoretical girl, equipping her with
everything she needs to fight the elements, fight the enemy and ultimately
survive.
cutting techniques a heavy element of my collection is hand-applied tasseled
knitwear, which is integrated into each look. Within the textiles that surround
this knit, quilted melton wool, piped hiking rope and technical closures are
used in an innovative manner subtly reinforcing the concept surrounding this theoretical girl, equipping her with
everything she needs to fight the elements, fight the enemy and ultimately
survive.
The tableau concept
Materials: fresh flowers,
camouflage net, large bark chip, artificial grass. The aim was to create
a vertical garden and created a feeling of adventure and the outdoors.
camouflage net, large bark chip, artificial grass. The aim was to create
a vertical garden and created a feeling of adventure and the outdoors.
GREG LEARMONTH (MENSWEAR) ROSALIND
The Collection
Founded on a hybrid of research, the collection
begins as an aspirational take on the interiors of particular New York
philanthropists. These ornate interiors have bold upholstery fabrics heavily
decorated with floral patterns. Fused with the foundation cuts of sports wear
garments – the silhouette develops into a sports-luxe collection of
tee-dresses, sports-inspired jackets and slick one-piece work suits for
eveningwear.
begins as an aspirational take on the interiors of particular New York
philanthropists. These ornate interiors have bold upholstery fabrics heavily
decorated with floral patterns. Fused with the foundation cuts of sports wear
garments – the silhouette develops into a sports-luxe collection of
tee-dresses, sports-inspired jackets and slick one-piece work suits for
eveningwear.
Progressing the deconstructive nature of the
sports wear research, sleeves are slashed at the shoulder, allowing sleeve
heads to drape, and edges finished raw to a light, clean finish.
sports wear research, sleeves are slashed at the shoulder, allowing sleeve
heads to drape, and edges finished raw to a light, clean finish.
Fabrics morph from subtly hued navy wools and
suiting fabrics into floral print hand painted silks and a heavy furnishing
satin with an oversized floral print of sage green, orange and yellow accents.
suiting fabrics into floral print hand painted silks and a heavy furnishing
satin with an oversized floral print of sage green, orange and yellow accents.
The tableau concept
The installation comprised
twelve angular arches positioned together to create an imposing, yet subtle
structure which complemented and framed Greg’s menswear collection. Each
individual arch was constructed from four lengths of cross-laminated cardboard,
which were cut to size and bolted together. When placed in situ the arches form
a curved tunnel in which Greg’s pieces were displayed.
twelve angular arches positioned together to create an imposing, yet subtle
structure which complemented and framed Greg’s menswear collection. Each
individual arch was constructed from four lengths of cross-laminated cardboard,
which were cut to size and bolted together. When placed in situ the arches form
a curved tunnel in which Greg’s pieces were displayed.
CALLUM MCKAY (MENSWEAR)
The collection
With a slight nod towards bad taste, the
inspiration behind this collection is hip hop culture of the 1990’s. The fabrics are
androgynous and combined with oversized silhouettes to create the illusion of
unisex garments. Faux fur, floral sports jersey and bleached
denim are used in cool hues.
inspiration behind this collection is hip hop culture of the 1990’s. The fabrics are
androgynous and combined with oversized silhouettes to create the illusion of
unisex garments. Faux fur, floral sports jersey and bleached
denim are used in cool hues.
The tableau concept
The
design is minimalistic and white so as to emphasize the variation of texture
and colours in Callum’s designs. Specially created cut-outs bring urbanism into
the setting without being too literal, and lighting is used both to highlight
the cut outs and cast shadows within the space. Stands for the models were kept
low to blurr the lines between the audience and models, creating the feel of
crowded urban spaces
design is minimalistic and white so as to emphasize the variation of texture
and colours in Callum’s designs. Specially created cut-outs bring urbanism into
the setting without being too literal, and lighting is used both to highlight
the cut outs and cast shadows within the space. Stands for the models were kept
low to blurr the lines between the audience and models, creating the feel of
crowded urban spaces
JAMES L NICOLSON
(WOMENSWEAR) VEILING
(WOMENSWEAR) VEILING
The Collection
Using Origami shapes as a starting point to
inform designs, with unusual and unexpected silhouette and a secondary theme of
Arabian clothing, the inspiration leads to the unusual Muse of a ‘Darth Vader
meets Arabian Princess’ character.
inform designs, with unusual and unexpected silhouette and a secondary theme of
Arabian clothing, the inspiration leads to the unusual Muse of a ‘Darth Vader
meets Arabian Princess’ character.
Transparent cotton Organdie fabric as well as
classic cotton and linen are used in garments that cover the body from head to
toe, based on traditional Muslim clothing. Numerous different tones of grey are
used throughout the collection as a ‘Colourless’ theme developed throughout my
work.
classic cotton and linen are used in garments that cover the body from head to
toe, based on traditional Muslim clothing. Numerous different tones of grey are
used throughout the collection as a ‘Colourless’ theme developed throughout my
work.
The tableau concept
James’
themes of veiling and his research on both origami and Arabian women inform the
podium design for the collection. It was designed so that all of the models stand
at different heights, and are viewed as such from different perspectives,
relating back to the work originated by James.
themes of veiling and his research on both origami and Arabian women inform the
podium design for the collection. It was designed so that all of the models stand
at different heights, and are viewed as such from different perspectives,
relating back to the work originated by James.
ZIAQI ZHONG
(WOMENSWEAR)
(WOMENSWEAR)
The collection
The silhouettes for this collection evolved
from the environmental art works of Christo and Jeanne Claude, the raw photojournalistic
style photographs of Jackie Nickerson and the unsettling ‘Hidden Mother”
portraits of the Victorian era. Also, photographs of sourced vintage clothes
were collaged to create new shape and forms.
from the environmental art works of Christo and Jeanne Claude, the raw photojournalistic
style photographs of Jackie Nickerson and the unsettling ‘Hidden Mother”
portraits of the Victorian era. Also, photographs of sourced vintage clothes
were collaged to create new shape and forms.
Various means of covering the body were
explored including: wrapping, concealing, binding, draping, layering and
encasing. Ideas of ‘finished’ and ‘unfinished’ were also explored.
explored including: wrapping, concealing, binding, draping, layering and
encasing. Ideas of ‘finished’ and ‘unfinished’ were also explored.
Research was also undertaken into the textures
of urban environments and these have been expressed through the bleached
tonality of canvas, calico and horsehair.
of urban environments and these have been expressed through the bleached
tonality of canvas, calico and horsehair.
The tableau concept
The main idea was
simple and elegant, using one consistent material. A large sheet of white
cotton continues from the wall and trails along the floor to roughly half way
across the space. Each of the 9 models stood on a small podium wrapped in the
same cotton material and the podia had a further individual sheet draped over
them.
simple and elegant, using one consistent material. A large sheet of white
cotton continues from the wall and trails along the floor to roughly half way
across the space. Each of the 9 models stood on a small podium wrapped in the
same cotton material and the podia had a further individual sheet draped over
them.