With influences from Art Deco jewellery to
1970s pop style and William Morris floral prints, the final collections created
by the latest graduates from the Glasgow School of Art’s MDes Fashion and
Textiles course were unveiled in a series of Promenades on 26 September 2013.
Bold colour palettes, natural dyes, architectural silhouettes and flowing
fabrics were among the signature styles of the 10 talented international
designers who had followed the MDes programme in 2013. Past graduates of the
programme have gone on to work for leading international fashion houses such as
American Apparel, Anthropologie, All Saints, Maria Grachvogel and Diane Von
Furstenberg, or have established innovative companies of their own such as
Bebaroque, Winners of the at the Fashion Accessory Designer of the Year the in
2011 Scottish Fashion Awards. The “class of 2013” unveiled a range of garments
that gave exciting new twists to traditional styles and showed masterly use of
fabric and decoration.
25-year old KALLIOPI ANDRALI from Greece unveiled a women’s wear collection,
featuring dresses, t-shirts, skirt and trousers, made using silk, cotton satin
and cotton poplin fabrics. The key influence in the silhouette and bold colour
palette of the collection is 1960s design, in particular the work of artist Roy
Lichtenstein. Having created digitally printed fabrics in the GSA’s Centre for
Advanced Textiles, 3d elements were applied to the garments to create the final
look.
featuring dresses, t-shirts, skirt and trousers, made using silk, cotton satin
and cotton poplin fabrics. The key influence in the silhouette and bold colour
palette of the collection is 1960s design, in particular the work of artist Roy
Lichtenstein. Having created digitally printed fabrics in the GSA’s Centre for
Advanced Textiles, 3d elements were applied to the garments to create the final
look.
The starting point for the textiles created
by 30-year old Greek designer MARIA-ANNA
BENA was a series of photos she had taken of Maltese glassware. Manipulated
using experimental techniques the images were then translated into designs to
be printed on to silks and satins. The collection of five signature dresses was
created mostly in a Mediterranean palette of earthy colours and sea blues with
each garment inspired by a 1920s silhouette.
by 30-year old Greek designer MARIA-ANNA
BENA was a series of photos she had taken of Maltese glassware. Manipulated
using experimental techniques the images were then translated into designs to
be printed on to silks and satins. The collection of five signature dresses was
created mostly in a Mediterranean palette of earthy colours and sea blues with
each garment inspired by a 1920s silhouette.
Chinese designer, CHANG-LUI, studied Fashion & Textiles at The Glasgow School of
Art as an undergraduate before continuing to the MDes programme. Her graduate
collection has focussed on crochet
using chunky yarns, particularly mohair and cotton, in a cream and orange
palette. The silhouette for the five unisex garments was influenced by shapes
typical in traditional Chinese architecture as well as historic helmets and
body armour.
Art as an undergraduate before continuing to the MDes programme. Her graduate
collection has focussed on crochet
using chunky yarns, particularly mohair and cotton, in a cream and orange
palette. The silhouette for the five unisex garments was influenced by shapes
typical in traditional Chinese architecture as well as historic helmets and
body armour.
23-year old STEPHANIE MCAVOY from Coatbridge studied Textiles and Fashion as an undergraduate at the GSA with a
print specialism. Her collection of women’s wear – including batwing dresses,
dresses with angular silhouettes and abstract, caped coats – was influenced by
the deep colours and bold geometric shapes of Art Deco jewellery. The collection
features silk jersey, mohair, wool and cashmeres, (selected for their draping
qualities), together with sheer fabric panels creating striking contrasts in
texture and look.
22-year old RACHEL MCINDOE from Glasgow also studied Textiles and Fashion as an undergraduate at the GSA, with
a specialism in embroidery. Her collection of black women’s wear
includes a skirt and top combination, a dress and a signature cloak inspired by
a design from the 1950s/60s. Wool base fabrics are embellished with 3-d hand-embroidery
in leather and Perspex. Different textures and contrasts are created by the cut
and style of the different embellishments. At the cutting edge of technology,
the embellishments were created using Illustrator software with the shapes cut
using laser and ioline cutters.
a specialism in embroidery. Her collection of black women’s wear
includes a skirt and top combination, a dress and a signature cloak inspired by
a design from the 1950s/60s. Wool base fabrics are embellished with 3-d hand-embroidery
in leather and Perspex. Different textures and contrasts are created by the cut
and style of the different embellishments. At the cutting edge of technology,
the embellishments were created using Illustrator software with the shapes cut
using laser and ioline cutters.
27-year old LEYLYA SALIF brings together her love of painting and her passion
for design in a collection of garments inspired by her native country – Bulgaria – and her Turkish heritage. As a
designer Leylya always begins with paintings, which she then translates into
textile prints. Her research for this collection of women’s wear began with
explorations of Islamic and oriental art looking at how the traditional colour
palettes and use of ornamentation could be translated into modern design.
Kaftan style wraps and long tunics feature blue, green, rust brown, ochre and
grey designs printed on to rich velvet and silk fabrics.
for design in a collection of garments inspired by her native country – Bulgaria – and her Turkish heritage. As a
designer Leylya always begins with paintings, which she then translates into
textile prints. Her research for this collection of women’s wear began with
explorations of Islamic and oriental art looking at how the traditional colour
palettes and use of ornamentation could be translated into modern design.
Kaftan style wraps and long tunics feature blue, green, rust brown, ochre and
grey designs printed on to rich velvet and silk fabrics.
As a designer 29-year old WAN-CHEN CHO (Olivia) from Taiwan starts with the silhouette and then
picks out details through the application of embroidery. The silhouette and
look of her collection of simple cut dresses has been strongly influenced by
designers such as Daniela Gregis and Matohu. Meanwhile, the approach of Japanese textile
designer, Mina Perhonen inspired her to create her own embroidered work. Olivia has used both hand and machine embroidery to highlight elements
of each garment.
picks out details through the application of embroidery. The silhouette and
look of her collection of simple cut dresses has been strongly influenced by
designers such as Daniela Gregis and Matohu. Meanwhile, the approach of Japanese textile
designer, Mina Perhonen inspired her to create her own embroidered work. Olivia has used both hand and machine embroidery to highlight elements
of each garment.
Chinese designer NING WANG was awarded the
2013 SPIE Prize for the best graduate project at The Glasgow School of Art. The 23-year old, who studied in
Beijing before coming to Glasgow, has created fabrics featuring her own
illustrations, the influences for which range from surrealist artists to
contemporary Graphic Novel style. Ning explores the boundary between dark and
beautiful subjects creating surreal drawings. This collection of bomber
jackets, trousers, shirts and sweatshirts has been made in silk crepe satin,
cotton with shapes inspired by old school hip hop – in particular zoot suit –
and 1970s pop style.
2013 SPIE Prize for the best graduate project at The Glasgow School of Art. The 23-year old, who studied in
Beijing before coming to Glasgow, has created fabrics featuring her own
illustrations, the influences for which range from surrealist artists to
contemporary Graphic Novel style. Ning explores the boundary between dark and
beautiful subjects creating surreal drawings. This collection of bomber
jackets, trousers, shirts and sweatshirts has been made in silk crepe satin,
cotton with shapes inspired by old school hip hop – in particular zoot suit –
and 1970s pop style.
Australian designer JULIE WHITE’s designs always
begin with the print. The fabric design for this collection of women’s
“luxe-casual” garments – including classic shirts, jackets and
trousers – is influenced by the formal composition and use of nature in prints
by designers such as William Morris. Characterised by fun and lively
colours, the fabric prints created by the 27-year old designer also bring a
modern twist to classic Australiana.
begin with the print. The fabric design for this collection of women’s
“luxe-casual” garments – including classic shirts, jackets and
trousers – is influenced by the formal composition and use of nature in prints
by designers such as William Morris. Characterised by fun and lively
colours, the fabric prints created by the 27-year old designer also bring a
modern twist to classic Australiana.
The history of dying and in particular
natural dyes and their very particular qualities is central to the work of
42-year old Canadian designer HEATHER
YOUNG. The fabrics for this collection of women’s wear, featuring 11
screen-printed garments, were coloured using natural dyes, many of them sourced
in Turkey. The fabrics that Heather Young has used to create the garments –
silks and wools – were selected for their particular ability to take these
natural dyes. The silhouettes in the collection include loose tunics, with
layering and quilting also featured in the designs. The wide-ranging influences
for the garments include garments worn by nomadic tribes, Victorian work wear,
1940s children’s clothes and folk art handicrafts.
natural dyes and their very particular qualities is central to the work of
42-year old Canadian designer HEATHER
YOUNG. The fabrics for this collection of women’s wear, featuring 11
screen-printed garments, were coloured using natural dyes, many of them sourced
in Turkey. The fabrics that Heather Young has used to create the garments –
silks and wools – were selected for their particular ability to take these
natural dyes. The silhouettes in the collection include loose tunics, with
layering and quilting also featured in the designs. The wide-ranging influences
for the garments include garments worn by nomadic tribes, Victorian work wear,
1940s children’s clothes and folk art handicrafts.
Ends
Notes for Editors
- MDes in
Fashion and Textiles at the Glasgow School of Art is an advanced skills
postgraduate programme designed to meet the ambitions of motivated Fashion
and Textile Graduates who wish to extend, develop and hone their
individual ‘design signature’. It attracts and welcomes two different
‘types’ of Fashion Design Student each with a characteristically different
approach. One can broadly be described as ‘Textile (or surface) led’ with
a design approach considered to be from the ‘Textile-outwards’. The
other can broadly be described as ‘Silhouette (or shape) led’ with a
design approach considered to be from the ‘Silhouette-inwards’.
Textile-led Fashion designers are more concerned with the surface, (print,
embroidery, decoration) or structure (weave, knit) of the fabric in a
garment. Silhouette-led designers are more concerned with the shape, cut,
outline and construction of a garment.
The programme connects to the research strategy of The Glasgow
School of Art in its links with the Centre for Advanced Textiles (CAT)
Research Centre.
- The 2013 SPIE Prize for best graduate project was awarded to Ning
Wang at the opening of the GSA’s 2013 Graduate Degree Show. The award was
presented by Tom Brady, Head of Business Development, SPIE UK.
For further information and images contact:
Lesley Booth
0779 941 4474