MEDIA RELEASE: International Masters of Fashion Design unveil collections at the GSA

September 15, 2016


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  •  Fifteen
    talented young designers showcased their collections in the annual MDes Fashion
    Promenades.
  • Inspirations
    ranged from Stoddard & Templeton carpet designs
    to traditional nomadic garments, Celtic Art and famous Glasgow landmarks including the Mackintosh Building.
Printed coat  and trousers by South Korean designer Kyoungwon Tae
 featuring Glasgowlandmarks including the Mackintosh Building

Designs by Omar Aziz and Yusi Chen


 

Designs by Lloyd Robertson, Xiao Wu



 
 Designs by Jo Morony and Patricia Wu Wu



 Designs by Rachel Mack and Jenna Rankin.

The 2016 cohort of Masters of Fashion Design
at The Glasgow School of Art unveiled their collections in three Promenades
this evening, 15 September. The fifteen talented designers hail from as far
afield as China, South Korea and the USA as well as from across Scotland.
Inspirations for the collections ranged from the
Stoddard & Templeton carpet design
archives, 
Celtic art,
typical Pearly King outfits, traditional nomadic garb,
World
War One military defence design patterns and dazzle camouflage with the
designers showcasing techniques including print, knit, weave and embroidery.
34-year old Omar Aziz from Los Angeles, has created a collection inspired by the sojourns
of refugees and nomads, their intersecting moments, and how historic western
politics have shaped the current the international refugee crisis with all its
social displacement. Omar has combined his a background in architecture and
interiors with influences from Afghan, Tibetan, and North African traditional
nomadic garb, to inform the silhouettes of the oversized, draped and wrapped
woolen outerwear. Removable collars, exaggerated ties, and jersey/cotton base
button ups, help to emphasize the need for comfortable and adaptive
garments. 
“My personal experiences have
culminated in a strong desire to explore the intimate
relationship between the
wearer and the garments,” explain Omar. “The
wearer experiences the aspects of the ‘weight on one’s shoulders’ and the
unbearable discomfort of discrimination that occurs as a refugee and a person
of colour.”
26-year old Yushan Fang from Jilin, China specialises in Embroidery. She has
used floral embroidery as the focus of her striking collection of women’s wear.
Her collection features elegant dresses with a heavy drape using crepes and
silk organza. She has created embroidered floral motifs that work both individually
and in a compositional arrangement. The flower shapes were inspired by 1960’s
and 1970’s French culture.
25-year old Ryan Anderson from Dundee specialises in printed textiles. His
Menswear collection is inspired by architecture focusing on the light and
shadows produced particularly within Nordic Architecture. Block colour, shape
and line all play a part in the design process for his textile designs which
showcase digital printing methods as well as screen-printing and hand printing
techniques.Creating a hybrid of tailoring and sportswear, the silhouettes for
Ryan’s collection combine waxed oversized outerwear with slim-line
undergarments that feature subtle pleating throughout. Ryan’s collection has
been supported by Halley Stevenson
22 year-old Rachel Eva Taylor from Peebles, in the Scottish Borders has created
a collection of Womenswear featuring Print and Mixed Media Textiles. “The
inspiration for my collection grew from a fascination with repetitive forms and
structures and has developed over my last few years of study,” says Rachel. “Upon
starting my masters at The Glasgow School of Art I decided to continue this
research through macro photography, building my own compositions through found
objects, such as pins, nails and cotton buds.” Rachel has combined screen
printing and embroidery techniques on a range of bonded and sheer fabrics to
contrast with one another. Using simple, garment shapes, her collection have
been created from using shapes from her drawings placed over toiles to build a
series of layers all around the body.
Jo
Moroney
, who studied on the Textile Design programme as an undergraduate at
The Glasgow School of Art, specialises in woven menswear. She has been
influenced in her designs by the
early 20th century Art movement, Vorticism, and World War One military
defence design patterns  such as dazzle
camouflage. Block colour shapes
are at the forefront of her Menswear
coat collection. “My designs have been
influenced by Tobias Rehberger’s modern take on dazzle camouflage and his
refreshing outlook on the defence patterns, and also by colour palettes of
contemporary artists such as Jennifer
Mehigan
and Erin O’Keefe,”
says Jo.  Pastel and tonal shades feature throughout
achieved by the use of wool provided by Jo’s sponsorship from Bute Fabrics together
with cotton mix yarns. Combining
silhouettes such as trench coats, pea coats and capes and t
aking
inspiration from fashion houses and designers such as Junn J, Craig Green, Paul
Smith and Raf Simons, Jo Moroney has constructed oversized, simplified silhouettes.
23-year old Yusi Chen
from China is a specialist in printing. Her design interest is to find a
perfect combination of sports and casual appearance, which is flexible for
people to wear on diverse occasions in the urban life. Her women’s wear
collection is inspired by urban fragment. To tell her story on the fabric, she
created her individual texture with succinct colours by using a variety of printing
techniques and textiles. The collection’s features silhouettes that are
oversize and street sport style, including wide trousers, bomber jacket and
loose sleeves. The sport silhouettes also collide with the elegant embroidery
fabric revealing a new street sport style. 
24-year old Lloyd Robertson from Aberdeen is a print specialist. His practice
focuses on the flamboyancy of the decorated male through the richness of
surface design. For his 2016 collection he has drawn on a vast array of
historical reference, particularly Scottish heritage such as Celtic art, in
order to create intricate, swirling patterns and lattice compositions. The
garments merge ceremonial and cultural attires of Pearly Kings, Elizabethan
embroidery and the overly opulent Fabergé eggs. 
Elaborate printed panels mimic embellishments of crystals and pearls
which give a nod to the masters Gianni Versace and Pierre Balmain; all in a tromp
l’œil like manner. Other luxury fabrics such as velvet, together with a
sophisticated palette of palatial golds and blacks, complement relaxed
silhouettes which include silk shirts and boxer shorts. All these references
come together to create a loose idea of a menswear collection.

22-year Patricia Wu Wu from Spain has created a
collection entitled Metanoia (a
transformation, a change of heart or mind.) Her collection unfolds the
ephemeral experience towards the inanimate involving breakage and decay to
evoke this transience of matter. A selection of natural and synthetic fabrics has
been chosen to create a contrast of ceramic textural qualities.
Manifested through material processes such as laser
cutting, dyeing, screen printing and painting on the fabrics, the
object through this act becomes a subject of its immateriality.
23-year old Xiao Wu from China has created a collection inspired by Tim
Burton’s short movie ‘Vincent’ which tells the story of a 7-year old boy’s
morbid imagination. Xiao has explored the association between psychiatric
patients and infants. She has focused on studying the asylum of Victorian Age
including the garments the patients wore and the decoration of the hospital.
The silhouette for her collection is inspired by collage work with the colours reflecting
old photos of antique interiors.
24-year Rachel Mack from
Edinburgh has taken inspiration from the Stoddard & Templeton carpet design
archives at both The Glasgow School of Art and The University of Glasgow for
her collections. Stimulated by the wealth of imagery and historic material
surrounding Glasgow’s once booming carpet industry, Rachel has created a
knitted menswear collection. Like the design archives she researched, floral
prints and motifs have become prevalent within the collection and sit alongside
more robust knit structures reminiscent of carpet backings. Rachel has
experimented with traditional carpet making techniques and heat treatment
processes to create a knitwear collection with an unexpected contemporary
feel. 
23-year old Sijia Chen from Shanghai, China, graduated from the Glasgow School
of Art Fashion Design undergraduate programme in 2015 and has continued her
studies at GSA. Her Master’s collection of Womenswear is inspired by
Radiography and how it shows the nature and essence of an object. From this she
explored the idea of skeleton of a garment. Sijia has experimented with various
fabrics to create new kinds bonded fabrics for her collection. She has used
diverse bias-bindings on the outside of garments to create a strong feature.


32-year old Kyoungwon Tae from Seoul, South Korea began her collection by drawing
her experiences and feelings. She tells her stories through the illustrations
on the fabrics and expresses her emotions by the silhouettes of garments. Her
drawings of Glasgow landmarks including the School of Art have been printed on cotton, velvet, silk and linen. “Linen is my favourite fabric as it an
eco-friendly material and very practical to manage,”
explains Kyoungwon “The natural crinkles of linen are
aesthetically pleasing and remind me of old and beautiful vintage fabrics.

Kyoungwon’s collection was inspired by vintage wallpapers and nursery papers in
terms of textile design, and by Pierre Cardin and Charles James as regards the
simple and oversized silhouette. “I have created womenswear,” Kyoungwon says “however the trousers, boiler suit and coat
which have simple an oversized silhouettes would fit men as well.”
23-year old Jenna Rankin from Dunfermline draws inspiration from the
relationship between clothing and wearer. She is particularly interested in the
vernacular of everyday dress and the way in which we wear clothing purely for
practicality and function (for example; borrowing your father’s
two-sizes-too-big coat to avoid the rain). Inspired by the characters she
encountered on the street, and the archive of vintage and well-worn clothing
she collected and photographed, Jenna has produced a collection of exaggerated,
oversized and often impractical garments which subvert original ideas of
functionality. Her menswear collection incorporates denims, twills and coated
cottons which give a nod to utilitarianism, while unconventional silhouette and
proportion decoratively engulf the form. Rankin has recently been snapped up by Peter Jensen.
23-year
old Yvonne Feng Yu
graduated with a
BA(Hons) in Fashion (Knitwear) from The Glasgow School of Art in 2015.  Her Masters Knitwear collection combines
her strong sense of colour with cleverly constructed stitch structures to
create an intriguing take on classic Womenswear silhouettes.
Inspired by Holton Rower’s Pour, Yvonne developed
a method of knitting with colour that expresses the fluid nature of his artwork
in a refined and considered way. He blended intensely colourful pigments onto
large canvases and encouraged them to flow freely, mixing and moving with one
another in a spontaneous manner.  In contrast to this organic method
Yvonne has engineered colour placement through the use of pleats and chevron
stitch techniques on a fine gauge machine. Using a variety of colourful,
textured yarns she has created exaggerated, frilled edges that are carefully
placed around the body. 
The intricate
knitted tops are styled with delicately coloured striped skirts made from
digitally printed cotton organdie  creating an elegant, wearable and
ethereal look for women.



Jing Xie from China also presented a collection of Womenswear.

The MDes Fashion Promenades were supported by
Buchanan Galleries. Kathy Murdoch, centre manager said: “As one of the go-to stops for fashion in Glasgow, we wanted to
support the next generation of fashion talent, especially when it’s right on
our doorstep.  The Glasgow School of Art fashion designers have promising
potential for the industry and it’s an honour to work alongside them as they
begin their careers.
Ends
For
further information contact:
Lesley
Booth
0779
941 4474

@GSofAMedia