Designs by Flint Macdonald, Clancy Dawson and Megan Seaton presented at the Savoy Tower
images: McAteer photo
The latest cohort of Fashion Design
students unveiled their Degree Show collections against the raw industrial
backdrop of the Savoy Tower today, 30 May 2018. Ten talented young
international designers showcased collections with titles ranging from The Vulgar is Tremendous Fun to – Absolutely Gentleman, Shimmering and Dirty and Creating tranquility.
students unveiled their Degree Show collections against the raw industrial
backdrop of the Savoy Tower today, 30 May 2018. Ten talented young
international designers showcased collections with titles ranging from The Vulgar is Tremendous Fun to – Absolutely Gentleman, Shimmering and Dirty and Creating tranquility.
|
| Design – Jacob Pulley Photo Rydel Cerezo |
In his collection Jacob Pulley, from
Cambridge, examines the relationship between The Prisoner and his Guard focusing on the imbalance of
power between the two parties within a social structure. “My collection investigates clothes that are worn to establish a role
of power and those used to define an individual as being powerless,” he
explains. “By combining elements of these
garments, a balance of strength and vulnerability is achieved on the body and
creates a dialogue about how the powerful and powerless grapple with each
other.”
Cambridge, examines the relationship between The Prisoner and his Guard focusing on the imbalance of
power between the two parties within a social structure. “My collection investigates clothes that are worn to establish a role
of power and those used to define an individual as being powerless,” he
explains. “By combining elements of these
garments, a balance of strength and vulnerability is achieved on the body and
creates a dialogue about how the powerful and powerless grapple with each
other.”
|
| Design Rebecca Armstrong Photo Rydel Cerezo |
Rebecca Armstrong from Belfast explores the theme of femininity
through the eyes of the 90s grunge scene in her Shimmering and Dirty collection. Rebecca has taken inspiration from
the work of photographers such as Corinne Day who helped to pioneer this
aesthetic in their fashion photographs, often labelled “raw” due to their use
of harsh lighting a lack of retouching. The garments combine two contrasting
elements of women’s wear: lingerie and tailoring. “My collection looks to deconstruct traditional pieces and reassemble
them as well as reimagining them in non-traditional fabrics,” she explains.
“Use of fabric in this collection plays
an important role in subverting traditional ideas on femininity,” she adds. Fabrics traditionally associated with
femininity and fragility such as lace, tulle and silk satin, are combined with
harsh synthetics and leather to create a juxtaposition between delicate and
hardwearing, translucent and opaque.
through the eyes of the 90s grunge scene in her Shimmering and Dirty collection. Rebecca has taken inspiration from
the work of photographers such as Corinne Day who helped to pioneer this
aesthetic in their fashion photographs, often labelled “raw” due to their use
of harsh lighting a lack of retouching. The garments combine two contrasting
elements of women’s wear: lingerie and tailoring. “My collection looks to deconstruct traditional pieces and reassemble
them as well as reimagining them in non-traditional fabrics,” she explains.
“Use of fabric in this collection plays
an important role in subverting traditional ideas on femininity,” she adds. Fabrics traditionally associated with
femininity and fragility such as lace, tulle and silk satin, are combined with
harsh synthetics and leather to create a juxtaposition between delicate and
hardwearing, translucent and opaque.
|
|
Design – Poppy Camden
Photo Rydel Cerezo
|
Poppy Camden’s collection The Revolution
Will Be Live-Streamed looks at the notion of
accountability and the lack of transparency in modern politics through wearable
misinformation intended to disorientate the viewer . “We’ve all felt it,” says Poppy.
“An uncertainty, lack of trust in those in power, unsure of who to believe and
with the stream of notifications, headlines
and updates so constant we’ve become numb to their content.”
Will Be Live-Streamed looks at the notion of
accountability and the lack of transparency in modern politics through wearable
misinformation intended to disorientate the viewer . “We’ve all felt it,” says Poppy.
“An uncertainty, lack of trust in those in power, unsure of who to believe and
with the stream of notifications, headlines
and updates so constant we’ve become numb to their content.”
|
| Design – Léa Bonaventure Photo Rydel Cerezo |
French designer Léa Bonaventure offers her Absolutely Gentleman collection. “The ‘Fin de siècle’ was recognized for
industrialization and a feeling of modernization,” says Léa. “Women desired more rights, mobility and started to adopt elements of
male style. Despite this, there was still a distinct separation between
men’s wear and women’s wear, reinforced by Victorian ideals.” Léa‘s collection combines the codes
and attributes of English Ladies and Gentlemen, obsessively concerned with
their changing place in society.
industrialization and a feeling of modernization,” says Léa. “Women desired more rights, mobility and started to adopt elements of
male style. Despite this, there was still a distinct separation between
men’s wear and women’s wear, reinforced by Victorian ideals.” Léa‘s collection combines the codes
and attributes of English Ladies and Gentlemen, obsessively concerned with
their changing place in society.
|
| Design – Flint Macdonald photo Rydel Cerezo |
Flint James McDonald from Dunoon showcased a
collection titled Son of a Tinker. “Acknowledging history as an active and
abiding presence in the creation of contemporary life has been a recurring
theme within my work,” says Flint. “Looking
to antiquated codes of the historical mode and challenging the notion of
binaries within sartorial regulation I question how ritualistic rites of
passage associated with garment and gender distinctions, and toying with the
very nature of their intent could provide an alternative means to socially
normative expectations of gendered fashion.”
collection titled Son of a Tinker. “Acknowledging history as an active and
abiding presence in the creation of contemporary life has been a recurring
theme within my work,” says Flint. “Looking
to antiquated codes of the historical mode and challenging the notion of
binaries within sartorial regulation I question how ritualistic rites of
passage associated with garment and gender distinctions, and toying with the
very nature of their intent could provide an alternative means to socially
normative expectations of gendered fashion.”
|
| Design Morag Seaton photo Rydel Cerezo |
The starting point for Scottish designer Morag
Seaton’s Memories of Dress collection was interviews with
people about their most valued clothes. “Each piece of the collection is
developed from these stories and takes the key elements of comfort, security,
identity and childhood memory,” says Edinburgh-born Morag. “The aesthetic draws
from hand-me-downs, abstract artwork and 60s interiors.”
Seaton’s Memories of Dress collection was interviews with
people about their most valued clothes. “Each piece of the collection is
developed from these stories and takes the key elements of comfort, security,
identity and childhood memory,” says Edinburgh-born Morag. “The aesthetic draws
from hand-me-downs, abstract artwork and 60s interiors.”
|
| Design – Kelly Hawkins Photo Rydel Cerezo |
Kelly Hawkins from Derbyshire dissects the hierarchy of
power within institutions in her Love Thy Neighbour Matthew 22:36’c
collection. ‘This is an order which we all know yet mankind’s society
cannot abide,” says Kelly. “The past
decade has seen issues such as the Chechnya 100, the immigration crisis and
continuing stigma towards mental illness and drug abuse. It is these recurring
issues, which become the base of my research.”
power within institutions in her Love Thy Neighbour Matthew 22:36’c
collection. ‘This is an order which we all know yet mankind’s society
cannot abide,” says Kelly. “The past
decade has seen issues such as the Chechnya 100, the immigration crisis and
continuing stigma towards mental illness and drug abuse. It is these recurring
issues, which become the base of my research.”
|
| Design Fengqi Liu photo Rydel Cerezo |
Chinese designer Fengqi Liu has taken inspiration from
the Terracotta army in her Armoured
Warriors collection. “For over 2,000 years, an underground army of
life-sized terracotta warriors secretly guarded the tomb of China’s First
Emperor,” says Feng. “The garments on
the terracotta army are made up of plates of leather linked and tied together.
They were originally lacquered and brightly coloured. I have reinterpreted
these details to create something modern and new while retaining some of the
mystery of a vanished empire.”
the Terracotta army in her Armoured
Warriors collection. “For over 2,000 years, an underground army of
life-sized terracotta warriors secretly guarded the tomb of China’s First
Emperor,” says Feng. “The garments on
the terracotta army are made up of plates of leather linked and tied together.
They were originally lacquered and brightly coloured. I have reinterpreted
these details to create something modern and new while retaining some of the
mystery of a vanished empire.”
|
| Design – Clancy Dawson photo Rydel Cerezo |
In her The
Vulgar is Tremendous Fun collection Clancy Dawson protests against the “sex
sells” ethic endemic in advertising and in the fashion
industry. “Drawing inspiration from archetypal feminine silhouettes, once
favoured by rock legends Rod Stewart, Brian Jones and Mick Jagger in the 1970s,
the purpose of this collection is to challenge our notions of beauty,
masculinity and ‘manliness’, in the hopes of transforming our expectations of
gender and sex roles for a more inclusive society” she explains.
Vulgar is Tremendous Fun collection Clancy Dawson protests against the “sex
sells” ethic endemic in advertising and in the fashion
industry. “Drawing inspiration from archetypal feminine silhouettes, once
favoured by rock legends Rod Stewart, Brian Jones and Mick Jagger in the 1970s,
the purpose of this collection is to challenge our notions of beauty,
masculinity and ‘manliness’, in the hopes of transforming our expectations of
gender and sex roles for a more inclusive society” she explains.
|
| Design Kyeong Jung photo Rydel Cerezo |
In her Creating tranquillity collection Kyeong Jung from South Korea aims to provide the wearer with a
comforting and serene personal space. “Those
who live in Metropolitan cities are surrounded by overwhelming, cold and grey
buildings,” she explains. “They are
also subjected to hordes of stressed-out people.” To achieve this tranquility,
each garment is generously oversized and easefully layered. This protects the
wearer both physically and emotionally,” she adds.
comforting and serene personal space. “Those
who live in Metropolitan cities are surrounded by overwhelming, cold and grey
buildings,” she explains. “They are
also subjected to hordes of stressed-out people.” To achieve this tranquility,
each garment is generously oversized and easefully layered. This protects the
wearer both physically and emotionally,” she adds.
The designers will head to London this weekend where a number of the
collections will be shown on the catwalk at Graduate Fashion Weekend. Following
the London showcase the garments will be on show in the Reid Gallery at 2018
Degree Show until Friday 8 June.
collections will be shown on the catwalk at Graduate Fashion Weekend. Following
the London showcase the garments will be on show in the Reid Gallery at 2018
Degree Show until Friday 8 June.
For full information on the
collections see Notes for Editors
collections see Notes for Editors
GSA Degree Show 2018 is spread over four venues: Architecture in the Bourdon Building, Design
disciplines in the Reid Building, School of Fine Art over in the Tontine Building and MFA in the Glue Factory. Running concurrently with Degree Show this
year is the Widening Participation exhibition in the McLellan Galleries, which
for the first time features the full portfolios created by exhibiting students.
Degree Show is open to the public from 2
– 8 June 10 am – 7pm Monday – Friday and 10am – 5pm on Saturday/Sunday. Entry
free.
disciplines in the Reid Building, School of Fine Art over in the Tontine Building and MFA in the Glue Factory. Running concurrently with Degree Show this
year is the Widening Participation exhibition in the McLellan Galleries, which
for the first time features the full portfolios created by exhibiting students.
Degree Show is open to the public from 2
– 8 June 10 am – 7pm Monday – Friday and 10am – 5pm on Saturday/Sunday. Entry
free.
Ends
For
further information, images and interviews contact:
further information, images and interviews contact:
Lesley
Booth
Booth
07799414474
Notes
for Editors
for Editors
Jacob
Pulley – The Prisoner and his Guard
Pulley – The Prisoner and his Guard
The research for this collection looked at the relationship between
prisoners and guards, focusing on the imbalance of power between the two
parties within a social structure. The narrative investigates clothes that are
worn to establish a role of power and those used to define an individual as
being powerless. By combining elements of these garments, a balance of strength
and vulnerability is achieved on the body and creates a dialogue about how the
powerful and powerless grapple with each other. Experimentation with cut and
drape has been used to further explore this volatile relationship.
prisoners and guards, focusing on the imbalance of power between the two
parties within a social structure. The narrative investigates clothes that are
worn to establish a role of power and those used to define an individual as
being powerless. By combining elements of these garments, a balance of strength
and vulnerability is achieved on the body and creates a dialogue about how the
powerful and powerless grapple with each other. Experimentation with cut and
drape has been used to further explore this volatile relationship.
Rebecca Armstrong – Shimmering and Dirty
This collection explores the theme of femininity through the eyes of the
90s grunge scene, taking inspiration from the work of photographers such as
Corinne Day who helped to pioneer this aesthetic in their fashion photographs,
often labelled raw due to their use of harsh lighting a lack of retouching. The
garments combine two contrasting elements of womenswear: lingerie and
tailoring. This collection looks to deconstruct traditional pieces and
reassemble them as well as reimagining them in non-traditional fabrics. Use of
fabric in this collection plays an important role in subverting traditional
ideas on femininity. Fabrics traditionally associated with femininity and
fragility such as lace, tulle and silk satin, are combined with harsh
synthetics and leather to create a juxtaposition between delicate and
hardwearing, translucent and opaque. Sampling forms the basis of my design
process, used to explore and reinterpret details and manipulate fabrics to
alter their textures.
90s grunge scene, taking inspiration from the work of photographers such as
Corinne Day who helped to pioneer this aesthetic in their fashion photographs,
often labelled raw due to their use of harsh lighting a lack of retouching. The
garments combine two contrasting elements of womenswear: lingerie and
tailoring. This collection looks to deconstruct traditional pieces and
reassemble them as well as reimagining them in non-traditional fabrics. Use of
fabric in this collection plays an important role in subverting traditional
ideas on femininity. Fabrics traditionally associated with femininity and
fragility such as lace, tulle and silk satin, are combined with harsh
synthetics and leather to create a juxtaposition between delicate and
hardwearing, translucent and opaque. Sampling forms the basis of my design
process, used to explore and reinterpret details and manipulate fabrics to
alter their textures.
Poppy Camden The Revolution Will Be Live-Streamed
We’ve all felt it. An uncertainty, lack of trust in those in power, unsure
of who to believe and with the stream of notifications, headlines and updates
so constant we’ve become numb to their content – information overload. A
familiar feeling in a society where ‘fake news’ is a household phrase,
political discontent and lack of faith in the government are commonplace and
Orwell’s 1984 seems closer than ever to becoming a reality. The gap between
“them” the decision makers, the politicians and “us” the ones affected by their
choices is constantly widening and it can often feel like we are simply observing;
unable to make our voices heard over the white noise of those in power. This
collection plays with the notion of accountability and the lack of transparency
in modern politics through wearable misinformation intended to disorientate the
viewer
of who to believe and with the stream of notifications, headlines and updates
so constant we’ve become numb to their content – information overload. A
familiar feeling in a society where ‘fake news’ is a household phrase,
political discontent and lack of faith in the government are commonplace and
Orwell’s 1984 seems closer than ever to becoming a reality. The gap between
“them” the decision makers, the politicians and “us” the ones affected by their
choices is constantly widening and it can often feel like we are simply observing;
unable to make our voices heard over the white noise of those in power. This
collection plays with the notion of accountability and the lack of transparency
in modern politics through wearable misinformation intended to disorientate the
viewer
Léa Bonaventure – Absolutely Gentleman
The ‘Fin de siècle’ was recognized for industrialization and a feeling of
modernization. Women desired more rights, mobility and started to adopt
elements of male style.
modernization. Women desired more rights, mobility and started to adopt
elements of male style.
Despite this, there was still a distinct separation between menswear and
womenswear, reinforced by Victorian ideals. Also, etiquette was considered an
indispensable part of dress and gentlemanly beliefs championed elegance as a
philosophy for living.
womenswear, reinforced by Victorian ideals. Also, etiquette was considered an
indispensable part of dress and gentlemanly beliefs championed elegance as a
philosophy for living.
This collection combines the codes and attributes of these English Ladies
and Gentlemen, obsessively concerned with their changing place in society.
and Gentlemen, obsessively concerned with their changing place in society.
Flint James McDonald showcased
a collection titled – ‘Son of a Tinker’
a collection titled – ‘Son of a Tinker’
“Acknowledging history as an active and abiding presence in the creation of
contemporary life has been a recurring theme within my work, says Flint.
“Looking to antiquated codes of the historical mode and challenging the notion
of binaries within sartorial regulation I question how ritualistic rites of
passage associated with garment and gender distinctions, and toying with the
very nature of their intent could provide an alternative means to socially
normative expectations of gendered fashion.”
contemporary life has been a recurring theme within my work, says Flint.
“Looking to antiquated codes of the historical mode and challenging the notion
of binaries within sartorial regulation I question how ritualistic rites of
passage associated with garment and gender distinctions, and toying with the
very nature of their intent could provide an alternative means to socially
normative expectations of gendered fashion.”
Bettering oneself with delusions of opulence and living out-with one’s own
means conjures the image of an individual whose own perceptions of self is
duped with thoughts of grandeur. These garments act as an attempting to
emulate by-gone royalty of medieval times by utilising one’s surroundings
whether it be the tearing apart of tattered floral upholstery to become a
jerkin or the stringing of pre-loved cutlery around one’s head to draw
attention to regal status -this collection is dedicated to the dreamer whose
deluded proposal for life becomes reality.
means conjures the image of an individual whose own perceptions of self is
duped with thoughts of grandeur. These garments act as an attempting to
emulate by-gone royalty of medieval times by utilising one’s surroundings
whether it be the tearing apart of tattered floral upholstery to become a
jerkin or the stringing of pre-loved cutlery around one’s head to draw
attention to regal status -this collection is dedicated to the dreamer whose
deluded proposal for life becomes reality.
Morag Seaton – Memories of Dress
Memories of Dress is a collection which draws from stories of garment
‘use’, a series of illustrated interviews about our most valued clothes. Each
piece of the collection is developed from these stories and takes the key
elements of comfort, security, identity and childhood memory. The aesthetic
draws from hand-me-downs, abstract artwork and 60s interiors. Functional
accessories are intertwined with this abstract aesthetic – resulting in a
design that considers wearability, function and desirability.
‘use’, a series of illustrated interviews about our most valued clothes. Each
piece of the collection is developed from these stories and takes the key
elements of comfort, security, identity and childhood memory. The aesthetic
draws from hand-me-downs, abstract artwork and 60s interiors. Functional
accessories are intertwined with this abstract aesthetic – resulting in a
design that considers wearability, function and desirability.
Kelly Hawkins Love Thy Neighbour Matthew 22:36’ (7)
An order which we all know yet mankind’s society cannot abide. The past
decade has seen issues such as the Chechnya 100, the immigration crisis and
continuing stigma towards mental illness and drug abuse. It is these recurring
issues, which become the base of my research. By dissecting the hierarchy of
power within institutions, I am able to understand and apply visual comparisons
to the emotions between the relationships that are created. Within this there
is a link to the works of George Orwell and Sarah Kane looking closing at their
writing about totalitarian states. I have formed a body of work looking closely
at the details of various uniforms (such as educational and medical
institutions) from different ends of the hierarchy and combined them with
classic British formal wea
decade has seen issues such as the Chechnya 100, the immigration crisis and
continuing stigma towards mental illness and drug abuse. It is these recurring
issues, which become the base of my research. By dissecting the hierarchy of
power within institutions, I am able to understand and apply visual comparisons
to the emotions between the relationships that are created. Within this there
is a link to the works of George Orwell and Sarah Kane looking closing at their
writing about totalitarian states. I have formed a body of work looking closely
at the details of various uniforms (such as educational and medical
institutions) from different ends of the hierarchy and combined them with
classic British formal wea
Fengqi Liu – Armoured Warriors
For over 2,000 years, an underground army of life-sized terracotta warriors
secretly guarded the tomb of China’s First Emperor. The garments on the
terracotta army are made up of plates of leather linked and tied together. They
were originally lacquered and brightly coloured. I have reinterpreted these
details to create something modern and new while retaining some of the mystery
of a vanished empire.
secretly guarded the tomb of China’s First Emperor. The garments on the
terracotta army are made up of plates of leather linked and tied together. They
were originally lacquered and brightly coloured. I have reinterpreted these
details to create something modern and new while retaining some of the mystery
of a vanished empire.
Clancy
Dawson – The Vulgar is Tremendous Fun.
Dawson – The Vulgar is Tremendous Fun.
This collection goes so far as to be almost
anti-erotic, in protest against the ‘sex
sells’ ethic endemic in advertising and in the fashion industry. Drawing
inspiration from archetypal feminine silhouettes, once favoured by rock legends
Rod Stewart, Brian Jones and Mick Jagger in the 1970s, the purpose of this
collection is to challenge our notions of beauty, masculinity and ‘manliness’,
in the hopes of transforming our expectations of gender and sex roles for a
more inclusive society. After all, as British milliner Stephen Jones says: “The vulgar is tremendous fun”.
anti-erotic, in protest against the ‘sex
sells’ ethic endemic in advertising and in the fashion industry. Drawing
inspiration from archetypal feminine silhouettes, once favoured by rock legends
Rod Stewart, Brian Jones and Mick Jagger in the 1970s, the purpose of this
collection is to challenge our notions of beauty, masculinity and ‘manliness’,
in the hopes of transforming our expectations of gender and sex roles for a
more inclusive society. After all, as British milliner Stephen Jones says: “The vulgar is tremendous fun”.
Kyeong Jung – Creating tranquility
Those who live in Metropolitan cities are surrounded by overwhelming, cold
and grey buildings. They are also subjected to hordes of stressed-out people.
My collection therefore, aims to provide the wearer with a comforting and
serene personal space. To achieve this, each garment is generously oversized
and easefully layered. This protects the wearer both physically and
emotionally. Tightly squeezed hugs have been cut into the silhouette to convey
affection.
and grey buildings. They are also subjected to hordes of stressed-out people.
My collection therefore, aims to provide the wearer with a comforting and
serene personal space. To achieve this, each garment is generously oversized
and easefully layered. This protects the wearer both physically and
emotionally. Tightly squeezed hugs have been cut into the silhouette to convey
affection.