Collections
by designers from as far afield as Scandinavia and Singapore, Paris and
Pakistan were unveiled in The Glasgow School of Art Fashion Show last night, 3 March
2015. Over 40 young young designers
showcased collections inspired by a range of non-Western traditions on a
catwalk set created by a Fashion and Textiles design team in partnership with
3rd year Architecture students. A pop up shop of work by the young designers will be open in the Reid Building foyer from 1pm – 10pm today, Wednesday 4 March.
Designs by Textiles students Kathryn McKerral and Sheryll Goh,
The young designers focused on World Dress and Textile traditions and explored a range of
clothing and cultural traditions to create collections comprising three looks.
Inspiration was drawn from traditions ranging from the bark paintings of the
Mbuti tribe of the DRC to the Inuit of Nunavik, Chinese porcelain and Japanese
Samurai, Masai blankets and Ethiopian body art, Syrian style and
Peruvian textiles.
“Adopting elements of different cultures is perfectly natural
when designing’’
says Jimmy Stephen-Cran, Head of Fashion and Textiles at the
GSA. “However, we expect our students to recognise the difference between
‘imitation’ and
‘inspiration.”
“This
theme requires considered and respectful research to ensure that the end
results are innovative and creative enough not to rely on cheap mimicry. The
students have very much risen to this challenge.”
“The reality of a designer’s life is that ‘designing’ is
only ever one aspect of what they do,” adds Stephen-Cran. “The annual GSA Fashion Show testifies to this.
As well as allowing 3rd Year students the opportunity to explore and test the
fashion potential of their ideas ‘full scale’, the organization and production of the
show is also entirely their responsibility. This
can be daunting task as for many of the young designers it is the first time
their individual and collective efforts are open to public scrutiny.”
Designs by Fashion Design students Ashleigh Miller and Fiona Smith
Nine Fashion Design
students unveiled collections which ranged from 21-year old Fiona Smith from
Berkshire’s ensembles inspired by the heavy drape of Bedouin traditions to oversized
accessories by 26-year old Ashleigh Miller from Forfar, and Hungarian folklore
inspired designs from 21-year old Glaswegian, Eve Eloul.
Meanwhile, 32 Textile Design students across four specialisms – embroidery, knit, print and weave –
each unveiled a new collection.
Knitwear designs by Karoline Hermanssen and Callum Brown
20-year old Karoline Hermanssen from Norway
showed knitwear inspired by the bold shapes and vibrant colours the Ndebele
tribe of Southern Africa; 26-year old Callum Brown from Paisley took inspiration
from Samurai armour for a collection of men’s knitwear; and 20-year old Kathryn
McKerrall from Clydebank showed knitted designs inspired by the vibrant colours
of Armenian traditions in a collection featuring red wool and bronze.
Embroidery designs by Caitlin Brown and Eliza Glanville
Among the collections by designers specializing
in embroidery were a organza dresses with richly coloured beading
inspired by Syrian traditions created by 26-year old Maja Bjork from Sweden;
designs by 21-year old Eliza Glanville from Hebden Bridge inspired by ornate
Chinese ceramics; black, gold and bronze designs by 21-year old Caitlin
Brown from Glasgow, which drew their inspiration from Native American
traditions; and 22-year old Sheryll Goh from Singapore’s reinterpretation of
the excessively textured costumes made by villagers of West Africa.
Designs by Rosie Munro (print) and Niamh Brannan (Weave)
Bronze was also a strong element of
print designer 20-year old Glaswegian Rosie Munro’s collection of printed
garments which were inspired by traditional Japanese woodblocks. Meanwhile, body painting
and traditional Masquerade from Burkino Faso gave the inspiration for 26-year
old Marissa Lapsley from Golspie’s collection of woven pieces and fellow weave
student, 19-year old Niamh Brannan from Ayrshire, also drew her inspiration from
African masquerades.
For full details of 3rd year collections see
Notes for Editors
The 3rd-year showcase was
preceded by selected designs by 2nd Year Fashion Design students.
The Fashion Show
2015 has once again been made possible by the generous support of headline
sponsors. Scottish fabric store Mandors and and
Dr.Martens continue their long association with The Glasgow School of Art
Fashion Show. This year they are joined by a new headline sponsor, Fat Buddha Store
Glasgow.
“Fat Buddha Store is delighted to mark out 10-year
anniversary with an exciting sponsorship of the annual Glasgow School of Art
Fashion Show.”
A spokesperson for Dr Martens Sauchiehall Street
said: “For the third year running
Dr. Martens Glasgow is excited to be supporting the GSA students with their
annual fashion. Self-expressions and creativity are part of Dr. Martens
core values and as a brand we stand for supporting the next generation of
designer.”’
All profits raised
from the Fashion Show go towards supporting final year students to showcase
their work in London at New Designers, the UK’s largest graduate design
exhibition.
3rd
Year Fashion Design and Textiles Design Collections
FASHION DESIGN
Fiona Smith, 21, Berkshire, Fashion Womenswear
I have chosen to
research Bedouin tribes; focusing on the middle east. Inspired by the heavy
drape of the traditional clothing as well as the thick, tent canvas rope used
by these desert dwelling
Daniel Tulloch, 27, Shetland Isles, Fashion Menswear
My inspiration for the
collection was drawn from specific details, silhouettes, colours and
manipulations seen in the indigenous attire of the tibetan people. Research of
artist fabric sculptures also inspired me to create some of my own distressed
and manipulations to add a subversive element and depth.
Alice Pinchbeck, 20, Lincolnshire, Womenswear Fashion
For my collection, I
drew inspiration from Iran, specifically in the 1970’s, a period of western
influence. I wanted to explore the juxtaposition of seventies modernism in
terms of colours and line with the deeper cultural heritage of the nation.
Specifically the dervish whose nomad
lifestyle creates beautiful layering of patterns and textures.
Rachael McMurray. 20. Fashion Womenswear
My collection is inspired by traditional Russian
silhouettes, looking to constructivism for bold print and colour inspiration,
combining them to create structured yet feminine pieces.
James lee, 21, South Korea, Fashion
Womenswear
For this collection, I was inspired by the Masai tribe of
east Africa, specifically the variety of shapes of the blankets that Masai
people wrap around their body which inspired me to interpret and experiment in
my own way.
Ashleigh Miller, 26, Forfar, Fashion Womenswear
I chose to look at
Turkey for my initial source of inspiration, focusing on traditional garments
from the Ottoman Empire era in particular. My unisex collection explores
voluminous silhouette and layering, worked in a mix of dense wool, canvas,
sweat-shirting and crepe in a tonal colour palette, modernising the look as a
whole. Selective beading replaces heavy embellishment and pattern supplying a
subtle glimmer.
Eve Eloul, 21, Glasgow, Fashion Womenswear
My collection has been
inspired by Hungarian folklore costume, focussing on the elaborate fringing,
traditional silhouettes and rich colour palettes the
eastern European
country is most renowned for.
Hangjun Jo, 23, South Korea, Womenswear
Fashion
My collection is inspired by Ancient Egyptian art, which
evokes me of elegance. I used leather, I also manipulated pleats for an
Egyptian mood.
Natalie Chilvers, 22, Paisley, Fashion womenswear
Peruvian cultures and
traditional garments which are worn in interesting layers have inspired my
collection through the bold use of colour and silhouette. I adore ‘cute’ styles
which can be emphasised to create interesting outcomes.
TEXTILE DESIGN
Embroidery
Eliza Glanville, 21, Hebden Bridge West Yorkshire, Embroidery
I was inspired by the
brightly coloured ornate ceramics of China, Particularly the floral motifs and
combining of different patterns.
Maja Björk, 26, Sweden, Embroidery
My collection is inspired by islamic culture with special
focus on Syria.The dresses are made of transparent silk organza and the embellishments
are mostly hand embroidered.
Rochelle McGuinness, 23, East Kilbride,
Embroidery
During my research into the Nunavik homeland of the
Inuit, I became inspired by the environment in which they live. Two key
elements informed my capsule collection, the ombré effect of the magnificent
skyline and the sharp geometric angles and translucent nature of the ice that
adorns the habitat of the Inuit. Focusing on menswear, I have developed and
created the textures and qualities found in my research and used processes such
as screen printing, fabric manipulation and construction of three-dimensional embroideries.
Noor-e-sehar Sajjad, 20, Pakistan, Embroidery
For this project I
chose Africa as the main continent and focused on two particular tribes: the
masai tribe and the woodabe tribe. I have mostly used 3D fabric manipulation
techniques and hand embroidery for this collection. I have used bright and dark
colours on black background. Main materials used are: cotton, silk organza,
trims and ribbons.
Penny Hewitt, 22 , Newcastle, Embroidery
I chose Peru as my
inspiration for this project. I found traditional peruvian textiles extremely
innovating, through their use of bold and vibrant colours and traditional
embellishment, which has heavily influenced my collection.
Caitlin Brown, 21, Glasgow, Embroidery
For this project I
decided to look at Native America for inspiration; I chose this as my starting
point as I like to combine structure and textures together. Looking into the
traditional dress and objects; where the use of patterns, fringing and
embellishment plays a key role and further developing my own ideas from this.
Although my inspiration came for Native America I wanted my garments to be
contemporary, I achieved this by using interesting materials and ways of
applying texture, as well as natural materials, such as, leathers and wood
which the traditional garments were made from. Looking at sustainability
along-side this, using recycled materials where possible and using zips to
create garments which can be taken apart, replaced or swapped to create something
new.My collection overall captures the elements which have inspired me most
from textile traditions, layering up different embroidered techniques creating
statement garments for the catwalk.
Iseabal Hendry, 21, Lochcarron, the Highlands, Embroidery
Inspired by Japanese
Samurai warriors, using rope, fringing, leather wood and metal hard wearing
objects.
Katie O’Brien, 27, Glasgow. Embroidery
Keen interest in
exploring material, I am eager to push boundaries of material against both
traditional embroidery techniques and more sculptural practises.
This project looked to Nagaland for inspiration, with its bold and rich use of
embellishment in its traditional dress. Found materials are used alongside
varying qualities and weights of fabric to produce unusual results, challenging
the typical perception of embroidery.
Rosie Noon, 22, Edinburgh, embroidery
My inspiration came
from 1970’s Marrakesch: Yves Saint Laurent’s Jardin Majorelle and it’s glorious
plant life for textures, shapes and line, and conversely a fascination for the
stripe, seen on the traditional Berber woman’s coat jacket, with photos taken
from Time Magazine’s archive. I took these shapes developed from my drawings,
and layout from my collages, to form a collection which combines these elements
of interest. I’d like the finish piece to form a collection of both texture and
flat shape, strong colour and monochrome, old techniques and new technology.
Sheryll Goh, 22, Singapore, Embroidery
I was drawn to the
excessively textured costumes made by villagers in West Africa for their annual
spiritual masquerades. My collection celebrates
Knit
Hilary Keyes, 19, Ayrshire, Knit
I have been inspired
by native Alaska and the traditional dress and art of Inuit people to create my
menswear collection for the fashion show 2015. I have explored Inuit dress and
combined found materials with domestic machine knitting
Kirsty Lamont, 31, Isle of Mull, Knit
My project is based on
the traditional textile techniques of Korea, focusing on the patchwork technique
of Pojagi. The structure of my knitted pieces reflects the control and
precision of this beautiful tradition. On top of this, I have overlaid a
cracked motif suggesting the interplay of control and chaos that forms the
basis of life experience.
Karoline Hermanssen, 20, Norway, Knit
I am focusing on Africa
in particular the Ndebele tribe where I am inspired by bold shapes, vibrant
colours and oversized garments shapes.
Emmi Keane, 20, Cardiff, knit
I have based my project on Japan and more specifically my
own heritage. My grandmother is Japanese and I have used her belongings and
photographs as the source for my project. I am also drawing inspiration from
the Japanese traditions that my gran showed us when my sisters and I were
children. As a result I have created playful and colourful designs.
Kathryn McKerrall, 20, Clydebank, Knit
For my collection I
have chose to study the Republic of Armenia focusing on layers and shapes found
within their traditional dress and intertwining these with the colours and
textures found within their national fruits: pomegranates and grapes. Foils and
fluid shapes were the starting point for my knitwear collection, but since,
they have taken on a life of their own…
Hayley Wilson, 20, Mossend, Knit For this project I have focused on the country India. I was inspired by the
folds, layers and pleats formed in traditional saris. The playful and vibrant
colours of them also interested me. I wanted to focus on these techniques and
colours to create my final three garments.
Calum Brown, Paisley, 26, knit
Interest in the human form. Collection based on Japanese
textiles with a specific interest in Samurai armour.
Sarah Morris 20 years old from Hamilton, Knit
I have been looking at the Democratic Republic of Congo.
The bark paintings of the Mbuti tribe particularly interested me through their
simple but beautiful patterns. I also was inspired by traditional masks from
the area, collaging ones together to create my own and so the face became a
motif I wanted to work with. Using a thick yarn to make a chunkier knit I
wanted to create busy patterns including adding a third colour to enhance the
structure. I found I was getting more interesting results on the reverse of the
fabric, so I designed patterns which worked this way round . I wanted to create
fun
garments which are heavy with pattern and texture.
Print
Patricia Moon, 54, Glasgow, Print
Theme of Collection :
Mexican culture incorporating a mix of both Hispanic and Indigenous influences.
Akash sharma, 20, Glasgow, Print
I have drawn my
inspiration from South Africa, specifically the Ndebele Tribe. They have a
fascinating culture, as well as a strong use of pattern and colour, which I
have considered and developed upon for my own collection
Emily Stopford, 20, Glasgow, Print
My collection is
inspired by the Herero Tribe of Namibia in South Africa. The Herero tribe was
colonised by Germany whose rule ended in 1945. In order to rebuild the cultural
identity of the Herero Tribe, the dresses and uniforms of the killed and
deported German soldiers were adopted including floor length gowns, western style
suits and hats, and military uniforms. My collection features 3 male jackets
and trousers.
Rosie Munro, 20, Glasgow, Print
I have focused my
project on traditional Japanese woodblock prints. Looking at artists such as
Hokusai, I have been inspired by the vibrances and markings with
Ellen Wardle, 21, Newcastle upon Tyne,
Print
I have taken inspiration the Omo Valley tribe in Africa,
looking closely at how real flowers are combined with painted tribal
decorations particularly spots and stripes. I have used procion dyes to create
vivid colours and have hand painted the spots and stripes in accordance with my
original research.
Steven Lindsay, 23, Edinburgh, Print
My collection was
inspired by West Africa, specifically the kente cloths native to Ghana. I
wanted to create a Menswear collection that embodied a contrast of soft
geometrics and textured marks. In doing so, I collected drawings and rubbings
of stone and metal work to create contemporary collages and checked patterns.
Domitille Cure, 24, France, Print
My
collection is inspired by Ethiopian body paintings and african naïve art. I
worked with different techniques from collages to paintings. The focus on my
design was to create very bold abstract prints with playful colours.
Weave
Merissa Lapsley, 26, Golspie, Weave
My collection is based
around body paintings and traditional masquerade from Omo valley and Burkina
Faso. I used hand manipulation techniques to create soft textures in contrast
with bold geometric patterns. Illustration and textures are the main focus of
my collection.
colours, which has
influenced me to explore painterly techniques within printed textiles.
.
Gillian Lewis, Glasgow, Weave
I had chosen to base
my research on a variety of images dating back to the Japanese Edo period, with
inspiration ranging from architecture, fine art and Japanese traditional dress
– more specifically, Japanese Samurai costume. Primarily it was the contrast of
subdued and bright colour palettes alongside the convoluted nature of the forms
and textures present throughout the art and fashion throughout this period that
had captivated my interest, thus providing a starting point on which to start
designing for my collection.
Niamh Brannan, 19, Ayrshire, Weave
I am an undergraduate
in woven textiles originally from the ayrshire west coast. Traditional
Masquerade festivals, across Africa, has been the focus of my fashion show
inspiration and I have specifically considering colour and hand manipulation
techniques. Masquerading varies from tribe to tribe across the continent
however a sense of using and applying a vast range of materials that are mostly
found objects, or easily available, is consistent throughout. I have tried to
incorporate this idea of “whatever I can find” into my work with
interesting material exploration. This ranges from wood, unspun wool and metal.
Katie Lang, 22, Musselburgh, Weave
I wanted to research a
country from South America due to the amazing geometric shapes and bright
colours that are linked with this continent, which led to me choosing Guatemala
as my source of inspiration. My aim in creating this mini collection has been
to focus on weaving very bright, colourful and geometric patterns; I want the
garment silhouettes to be very simple, with the detail being in the patterns
and colour combinations of the woven fabric.
Elise Davidson, 21, Blackpool, Weave
While studying abroad in Kyoto, Japan I took many photos
to get my inspiration for my collection from. The aspect which I have focused on
is the autumn leaves changing colour; this is where my colour pallet has come
from. I wanted to combine the traditional colours of Japan and weave them into
a western garment shape. My designs have come from looking at architecture, in
particular temples and shrines, which have a grid like appearance and symmetry;
I have then translated this within my work.
Mariam Syed, 31, Pakistan, Weave
My inspiration for the
fashion show project is Miao textiles from China. I am fascinated by the
vibrant colours and diverse embroidery of the Miao people and want to
incorporate it into a woven fabric. this energetic resourcefulness with quirky
found materials and lots of movement.
Rachel Ella Northedge, 21, Chesterfield, Weave
After
studying on exchange at Designskolen Kolding in Denmark, I was inspired to
approach my latest project from a conceptual theme instead of my usual
inspiration of architectural photography. After reading about the killings and
arrests of several beauty pageant queens in Mexico, my research began to delve into
narco-culture within states such as Sinaloa in Mexico. I wanted to create a
collection of woven textiles that incorporated traditional vivid Mexican
colours with modern day imagery (guns, drugs, beauty crowns and ‘los santos de
los narcos’, the narco-saint Jesus Malverde). This way, I hope to deliver
beautiful Spring/Summer garments to the viewer that have an intriguing story to
tell.
DR. MARTENS
Throughout
Dr. Martens history, the brand has been adopted and subverted by countless free
thinking individuals, subcultures and tribes. These are the people who stand
out from the crowd in their own unique way and for many, their journey of
self-expression has always been accompanied by a pair of Doc’s. Dr. Martens
celebrates these free-thinking individuals – from first time wearers to those
who have been with the brand forever. These are the authentic characters that
stand for something.
